Danger shield Kit in stock!
Asked by people quite some time earlier, we started to prepare the kits. The sliders are rarely used so we have to place a small order, and they finally arrives. Pretty good stylish switches, reminding me of those electrical 101 classes back in school…
Since Albert is busy with iPod breakout, I pick up the solder and assembled one for myself. It might take about half a hour for someone like me who don’t solder often now, nothing is difficult but having fun! Following the guides here: http://wiki.nycresistor.com/wiki/Danger_Shield_1.0
One trick here is on the temp sensor. Maybe you would want to solder the temp sensor the reverse way than the mark on PCB, or it will turn down the shield and heat itself. Check out the scheme and you will understand why.
Seeeduino is perfect for the shield, skipping following steps.
Prepare Arduino Headers
Insulate USB Connector
Tested with Demo code – Random blinking of every shiny ones.
Complete kits Here, enjoy some soldering ^^
About Author
My brother gave me a danger sheild about 16mth ago, I built it and the power went down, then I burnt my finger.
If I sue can I spend the rest of my life in the south of France, or should I just be glad that I was able to do a search, danger hot temperure seneor and get this.
I think I can easliy get another 🙂 so I will give up on the early retairment dream, I imagine in a court of law the denfese would be.
“It said danger on the board” what more of a warning do you want 🙂
Eric,
No worries. Hopefully people who buy the board will read my review- it works great otherwise. I’m enjoying messing with it.
/K
Hi guys, really sorry for this! A mistake been corrected twice is another mistake, again.
Desoldering the LM35DZ will make the board work with no problem then, if you need spare parts or any other help please let us know. I wish I have noticed the comments here earlier. Sorry again!
Looking at the traces, and comparing them to the diagrams on the NYC_resistor site, it looks like Seeed Studio not only turned around the silk-screening for the temp sensor, they also retraced the wiring. So it’s backwards again.
I got another LM35DZ (in Akihabara of all places) and soldered it in with the flat side facing AWAY from the near side of the board (toward the sliders) – now it works. BUT – to get the sample code to run I had to add ‘#include “WProgram.h” ‘ before the ‘include “_init.h” ‘ line (see http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1224864760/10#10).
Like festizio, I just had the same thing happen. My board has the silkscreen showing flat part facing the edge, which is how I soldered it. Temp sensor got very hot, and board died. I desoldered the temp sensor – at least so far the board doesn’t seem to be ruined. I had already clipped the leads – don’t know if I’ll have enough to solder them back if I can figure out which direction.
My dangerboard has the silk screen printed with the flat side of the temp sensor out, and that is the way i soldered it. When i power on, the temp sensor gets REALLY hot (i burned my finger) I was going to try it with the flat side in, but i destroyed the leads while desoldering it.
Indeed the temp-sensor silk screen was printed backwards. If you solder it in the way it tells you, the board will power up for 10 seconds, the temp sensor gets very hot, then it shuts down. In Zack Smith’s video demo of the Danger Shield, he doesn’t even have the temp sensor mounted on his board. You should follow his instructions verbatim, ignoring the incorrect silk screen print (flat side of sensor should face edge of board).